Monday 28 August 2023

T. E. Lawrence to Charlotte Shaw

Lawrence of Arabia on a motorcycle on Dr John Dunn. 

 

 

 

 

 


 

I'm taking an interest in T. E. Lawrence at the moment for a variety of reasons, not the least his motorcycling exploits. Here in a letter he describes the likely outcome of a ride on his latest Brough Superior.

Correspondence with Bernard and Charlotte Shaw 1922-1926 (Woodgreen Common, Castle Hill Press)

Lawrence was in Edinburgh in August 1926 visiting Bartholemew's, the famous map-makers, who were producing a map for his Seven Pillars of Wisdom.



Tomorrow morning I will see them and tomorrow afternoon I will be in Cranwell. It takes 7 1/2 hours, on Boanerges,* going respectably. The respectability is mine. Boanerges would go madly, if I would. Alas, surely I grow old. Again and again, this morning, when we came to a piece of road which invited ninety, I patted his tank and murmured “Seventy only, old thing”, and kept to it. The excuse I gave myself was that Edinburgh was a long way and that there must be no open throttle ona long journey. Indeed that was once my maxim: but today I kept the maxim without being vexed thereby: and that is significant. Or is it only that I have ridden too many hundreds of miles this last week?

*Lawrence called his first motorcycle “Boanerges,” a name given to the apostles John and James by Jesus. It means: Son of Thunder.

© John Dunn.

Friday 18 August 2023

"One of England’s straightest and fastest roads"


The chapter entitled ‘The Road’ in T. E. Lawrence’s book The Mint (published posthumously in 1955), is famous amongst motorcyclists.

Lawrence evokes brilliantly the thrill of riding along a fast, straight road, until he eases his Brough Superior down a hill and into Lincoln. Arriving at Lincoln Cathedral, he stables the ‘steel magnificence of strength and speed at his west door’, and describes having a ‘cup of real chocolate and a muffin at the teashop’.

Lawrence wrote that it was a journey he undertook ‘nightly’.

Nightly I’d run up from the hangar, upon the last stroke of work, spurring my tired feet to be nimble. The very movement refreshed them, after the day-long restraint of service. In five minutes my bed would be down, ready for the night: in four more I was in breeches and puttees, pulling on my gauntlets as I walked over to my bike, which lived in a garage-hut, opposite. Its tyres never wanted air, its engine had a habit of starting at second kick: a good habit, for only by frantic plunges upon the starting pedal could my puny weight force the engine over the seven atmospheres of its compression.

This escape from ‘the day-long restraint of service’ was from his posting as Aircraftman T. E. Shaw at the RAF Cadet College in Cranwell, Lincolnshire, between 1925 and 1926. Famously seeking to escape the alter ego of Lawrence of Arabia, he had enlisted pseudonymously.

Lawrence bought a new Brough Superior motorcycle to celebrate his return to the RAF and it is this 1925 SS 100 that appears as the mighty Boanerges* in Lawrence’s thrilling evocation of the flat-out ride in The Mint.

The stretch of road where he claims to have raced – and beaten – a Bristol Fighter was the A15 between Sleaford and Lincoln.

Another bend: and I have the honour of one of England’s straightest and fastest roads. The burble of my exhaust unwound like a long cord behind me. Soon my speed snapped it, and I heard only the cry of the wind which my battering head split and fended aside. The cry rose with my speed to a shriek: while the air’s coldness streamed like two jets of iced water into my dissolving eyes. I screwed them to slits, and focused my sight two hundred yards ahead of me on the empty mosaic of the tar’s gravelled undulations.

I followed Lawrence’s A15 route from Cranwell to Lincoln on my own motorcycle and, yes indeed, after a short sequence of sweeping bends, the road does straighten out for mile after mile, to reach a crescendo of strait line speed potential where it passes RAF Waddington, which was but a tiny aerodrome in Lawrence’s day.

But oh how things have changed in the speed department. The sheer amount of traffic (mid-afternoon on a sunny August day), combined with speeding traps, made any hope of replicating Lawrence’s epic ride nothing more than a flight of fancy. Perhaps 'nightly' offers a better chance. Perhaps I'll try a late-evening ride one day.

Nevertheless, it was good to have motorcycled along the road of which Lawrence and his roaring Boanerges made a legend.

*Lawrence called his first motorcycle “Boanerges,” a name given to the apostles John and James by Jesus. It means: Sons of Thunder.


© John Dunn.

The Road by T. E. Lawrence 

The extravagance in which my surplus emotion expressed itself lay on the road. So long as roads were tarred blue and straight; not hedged; and empty and dry, so long I was rich.

Nightly I’d run up from the hangar, upon the last stroke of work, spurring my tired feet to be nimble. The very movement refreshed them, after the day-long restraint of service. In five minutes my bed would be down, ready for the night: in four more I was in breeches and puttees, pulling on my gauntlets as I walked over to my bike, which lived in a garage-hut, opposite. Its tyres never wanted air, its engine had a habit of starting at second kick: a good habit, for only by frantic plunges upon the starting pedal could my puny weight force the engine over the seven atmospheres of its compression.

Boanerges’ first glad roar at being alive again nightly jarred the huts of Cadet College into life. ‘There he goes, the noisy bugger,’ someone would say enviously in every flight. It is part of an airman’s profession to be knowing with engines: and a thoroughbred engine is our undying satisfaction. The camp wore the virtue of my Brough like a flower in its cap. Tonight Tug and Dusty came to the step of our hut to see me off. ‘Running down to Smoke, perhaps?’ jeered Dusty; hitting at my regular game of London and back for tea on fine Wednesday afternoons.

Boa is a top-gear machine, as sweet in that as most single-cylinders in middle. I chug lordlily past the guard-room and through the speed limit at no more than sixteen. Round the bend, past the farm, and the way straightens. Now for it. The engine’s final development is fifty-two horse-power. A miracle that all this docile strength waits behind one tiny lever for the pleasure of my hand.

Another bend: and I have the honour of one of England’ straightest and fastest roads. The burble of my exhaust unwound like a long cord behind me. Soon my speed snapped it, and I heard only the cry of the wind which my battering head split and fended aside. The cry rose with my speed to a shriek: while the air’s coldness streamed like two jets of iced water into my dissolving eyes. I screwed them to slits, and focused my sight two hundred yards ahead of me on the empty mosaic of the tar’s gravelled undulations.

Like arrows the tiny flies pricked my cheeks: and sometimes a heavier body, some house-fly or beetle, would crash into face or lips like a spent bullet. A glance at the speedometer: seventy-eight. Boanerges is warming up. I pull the throttle right open, on the top of the slope, and we swoop flying across the dip, and up-down up-down the switchback beyond: the weighty machine launching itself like a projectile with a whirr of wheels into the air at the take-off of each rise, to land lurchingly with such a snatch of the driving chain as jerks my spine like a rictus.

Once we so fled across the evening light, with the yellow sun on my left, when a huge shadow roared just overhead. A Bristol Fighter, from Whitewash Villas, our neighbour aerodrome, was banking sharply round. I checked speed an instant to wave: and the slip-stream of my impetus snapped my arm and elbow astern, like a raised flail. The pilot pointed down the road towards Lincoln. I sat hard in the saddle, folded back my ears and went away after him, like a dog after a hare. Quickly we drew abreast, as the impulse of his dive to my level exhausted itself.

The next mile of road was rough. I braced my feet into the rests, thrust with my arms, and clenched my knees on the tank till its rubber grips goggled under my thighs. Over the first pot-hole Boanerges screamed in surprise, its mud-guard bottoming with a yawp upon the tyre. Through the plunges of the next ten seconds I clung on, wedging my gloved hand in the throttle lever so that no bump should close it and spoil our speed. Then the bicycle wrenched sideways into three long ruts: it swayed dizzily, wagging its tail for thirty awful yards. Out came the clutch, the engine raced freely: Boa checked and straightened his head with a shake, as a Brough should.

The bad ground was passed and on the new road our flight became birdlike. My head was blown out with air so that my ears had failed and we seemed to whirl soundlessly between the sun-gilt stubble fields. I dared, on a rise, to slow imperceptibly and glance sideways into the sky. There the Bif was, two hundred yards and more back. Play with the fellow? Why not? I slowed to ninety: signalled with my hand for him to overtake. Slowed ten more: sat up. Over he rattled. His passenger, a helmeted and goggled grin, hung out of the cock-pit to pass me the ‘Up yer’ Raf randy greeting.

They were hoping I was a flash in the pan, giving them best. Open went my throttle again. Boa crept level, fifty feet below: held them: sailed ahead into the clean and lonely country. An approaching car pulled nearly into its ditch at the sight of our race. The Bif was zooming among the trees and telegraph poles, with my scurrying spot only eighty yards ahead. I gained though, gained steadily: was perhaps five miles an hour the faster. Down went my left hand to give the engine two extra dollops of oil, for fear that something was running hot: but an overhead Jap twin, super-tuned like this one, would carry on to the moon and back, unfaltering.

We drew near the settlement. A long mile before the first houses I closed down and coasted to the cross-roads by the hospital. Bif caught up, banked, climbed and turned for home, waving to me as long as he was in sight. Fourteen miles from camp, we are, here: and fifteen minutes since I left Tug and Dusty at the hut door.

I let in the clutch again, and eased Boanerges down the hill along the tram-lines through the dirty streets and up-hill to the aloof cathedral, where it stood in frigid perfection above the cowering close. No message of mercy in Lincoln. Our God is a jealous God: and man’s very best offering will fall disdainfully short of worthiness, in the sight of Saint Hugh and his angels.

Remigius, earthy old Remigius, looks with more charity on and Boanerges. I stabled the steel magnificence of strength and speed at his west door and went in: to find the organist practising something slow and rhythmical, like a multiplication table in notes on the organ. The fretted, unsatisfying and unsatisfied lace-work of choir screen and spandrels drank in the main sound. Its surplus spilled thoughtfully into my ears.

By then my belly had forgotten its lunch, my eyes smarted and streamed. Out again, to sluice my head under the White Hart’s yard-pump. A cup of real chocolate and a muffin at the teashop: and Boa and I took the Newark road for the last hour of daylight. He ambles at forty-five and when roaring his utmost, surpasses the hundred. A skittish motor-bike with a touch of blood in it is better than all the riding animals on earth, because of its logical extension of our faculties, and the hint, the provocation, to excess conferred by its honeyed untiring smoothness. Because Boa loves me, he gives me five more miles of speed than a stranger would get from him.

At Nottingham I added sausages from my wholesaler to the bacon which I’d bought at Lincoln: bacon so nicely sliced that each rasher meant a penny. The solid pannier-bags behind the saddle took all this and at my next stop a (farm) took also a felt-hammocked box of fifteen eggs. Home by Sleaford, our squalid, purse-proud, local village. Its butcher had six penn’orth of dripping ready for me. For months have I been making my evening round a marketing, twice a week, riding a hundred miles for the joy of it and picking up the best food cheapest, over half the country side.

Wednesday 12 April 2023

The Great Portway: additional information


The medieval base of the market cross on the Green at Cuddesdon in Oxfordshire on Dr John Dunn.

The base of the medieval market cross on the Green at Cuddesdon in Oxfordshire

 Additional to work on my conjectured Roman and medieval South-North route. The summary of findings to date can be found in an earlier post published on the 26th December 2022.

I have found further evidence to support my theory in the Victoria County History of Oxford that there was a Roman route called the Portway, that runs South to North from Calleva Atrebatvm (Silchester) to join the Watling Street at what is now Norton, but in Roman times was Bannaventa. The route, far from straight by any standards, let alone Roman, was likely made up of former tracks that pre-dated the Roman invasion. After the Romans departed Britain, the route continued as a trade route into the Middle Ages.

I stated that I believed the route ran through either Cuddesdon or Garsington in Oxfordshire.

G. B. Grundy believed the road from Garsington to Coombe Wood corner was a straete in Saxon times. He also thought that this was the Roman road from Dorchester to Alchester. I believe he was partially correct, in that this might well have been the Roman road between Dorchester-on Thames and Alchester, either before the crossing of Otmoor was successfully engineered, or during periods of wet weather when crossing Otmoor was impossible, or both.

However, I still think the Cuddesdon route has the better claim, given the dry ridgeway to Cuddesdom from the river crossing at Chislehampton.

Also the road dictated the layout of Cuddesdon somewhat as evidenced by the fact that it was an Anglo-Saxon linear village along what is now the High Street.

The straight sections of road from Cuddesdon to Coombe Wood and from there to Wheatley still appear on the map to be a possible straete in Saxon times, one on which the Portway and the Dorchester-Alchester Roman road both ran at this point, before separating at Islip.

In the Middle Ages Cuddesdon was the dominant parish centre of the locality, and the market cross at Cuddesdon is evidence for some degree of trade on what was still a South-North packhorse route.



The base of the medieval cross used as a war memorial 

The village cross, moved to the churchyard in 1857, once stood near the point where the road forks to the church. The medieval stone base to the cross remains in its original position.

© John Dunn.